Theory

We write a great deal on this list about using positive training, desensitization, and counter-conditioning to help modify the behavior of aggressive dogs. We discuss classical conditioning, desensitization and counter conditioning wherein one attempts to pair two things (i.e. food treats and the dog's sight of other dogs/or other people) in order to help the dog form a new positive mental association.

We refer often to the concepts in Jean Donaldson's books, Culture Clash and Dogs Are From Neptune, which are recommended for all list members. Essentially, what we're suggesting is that the owner controls all resources important to dogs: food, shelter, comfy beds, toys, treats, access to outdoor play times, exercise, etc. The owner, who controls these resources, has powerful tools to use as rewards, and that's how we may remediate dogs' problem behaviors.

Next, we get into specific teaching/training ideas. For many people coming here to this list, learning how to use operant conditioning is an entirely new concept, so please understand why we need to explain it frequently. Operant conditioning is a term in the field of psychology that means "animals learn as a result of the consequences of their behaviors. Behaviors which are rewarding to the student will be repeated. Behaviors which are not rewarding to the student will begin to extinguish." We comprehend those concepts and we apply the teaching corollaries.

'Operant conditioning with a reward marker'  or "event marker" is a term in the field of psychology referring to teaching methods employing positive reinforcement *and* a reward marker so that the student learns which particular finite and discrete behavior is the one being reinforced.

The now popular term Clicker Teaching means to use positive reinforcement to reward the dog for the behaviors it offers that we want to reinforce.  The click sound is the reward marker or event marker.

First, however, we need to think of dogs' behaviors as value-free, neutral. They're simply another species' behaviors.

When we begin to think as positive trainers, we concentrate our efforts on the behaviors that we wish to reward so that the dog will offer them again. Remember the simple law of learning that behaviors which are heavily reinforced will be repeated. We use reward-based training because (1.) it's effective and (2.) our aim is to build a cooperative working relationship and to develop a dog that can problem-solve.

I've discovered that many people are willing to "take a look at" operant conditioning/ clicker training more or less for their own amusement. But, in the beginning especially, they're extremely unsure whether clicker training will work, and they're equally unsure whether clicker training will help them build their dogs' skills reliably. There are valid concerns, particularly for "crossover trainers," people who have previously taught dogs very successfully using other methods, such as command-based compulsive methods. I'm happy to refer you to some information you may read right away, even before the books you've ordered have arrived.

Let's deal with that issue about success in performance events, the idea that "Oh you can use that food treat stuff for pet dogs, but if you really want a performance dog, you'll need to apply corrections to show the dog when it's wrong."

Karen Pryor, a marine biologist and behaviorist who originally brought the concept of clicker training to most of us, has included an Honor Roll of successful achievers at her web site http://www.karenpryor.com/ I guess that dispels the myth!!

You may also visit Lana Mitchell's site http://www.clickforsuccess.com/  Lana continues to achieve high awards. Her triple champion (American, Canadian, and International) CH Cashmere Sparking Cider, CDX, TD, HS, NAJ is still a very young collie as I write this. I remember reading that she started a very young pup on tracking. It was ready to compete in tracking events while very young, by the time it could first enter a trial at 6 months of age.

There's no need for me to refer you to all the breed specialty publications for more such results. So many people are involved in clicker training for teaching  Canine Good Citizen classes, or for Family Dog training, Beginners, Novice, Open and Utility, that some folks who have not yet tried it are beginning to feel, "Hm. I may be missing something."

For a good general overview before you pick up your very first clicker, I'd like to refer you to "An Animal Trainer's Introduction to Operant and Classical Conditioning," by Stacy Braslau-Shneck. Be sure to scroll down to the many
topics presented. http://www.wagntrain.com/OC/

Personally, I was deeply touched and moved by Debi Davis's account of training her service papillon, Pappy. When I realized that Pappy had learned to think and to problem solve, it struck me that using clicker training/operant conditioning is a means for owners to reach, touch, and develop dogs' mental capacities. That sounds like changing the whole concept of "dog training" to teaching and providing an education as we build the skills we want our dogs to learn! Now that's exciting, indeed. You'll see how these principles apply to our work without force in teaching aggressive dogs.

Practical suggestions

Question: "I am having trouble getting my new dog (16 months old.) reacting properly to the clicker."

I'd suggest putting your other dog away first. Then with only the one dog in the room with you, you could begin the exercise called "Conditioning the dog to the click sound." At this point, one merely hides the clicker, say in one's pocket, keep a thumb on the clicker to make a click sound, and then -- using the other hand -- feed the dog right away a little snippet of cheddar cheese or of sliced roast beef. Then click again, and feed again. Do about ten repetitions. Click first, then feed tiny tidbit treat immediately, within 15 seconds.That's it.

I've never had to do more than that, but some people prefer to schedule several sessions for conditioning. The object of this exercise is *merely* to have the dog begin to associate the sound *click* > (predicts) *good thing coming for me!* In other words, at this introductory stage, the click sound is a predictor, announcing that a treat is coming. That's all it is.

While the owner is conditioning the dog to the click sound, the owner does *not* use the click sound to mark the behavior the dog offered that we wish to reward. That stage comes a tiny bit later. Many people do just fine by omitting the "condition the dog to the click sound" steps, and they start right in using the click sound first to mark a desired behavior, following the click with hand-delivering a treat to the dog. 

Question:  "This young dog will take the food I offer but is enchanted with the noise of the clicker and looks at it every time I click."

There's no reason for the dog to even see the clicker. May I caution you, please, not to point the clicker at the dog. If fact, to work actively and conscientiously to prevent a human-natural tendency to point the clicker as it it were a TV remote controller <sigh>,

it's a really good idea to hide the clicker, such as what I find so useful to do, by placing it in my slacks pocket -- particularly when I'm doing a clicker lesson outdoors in the yard. Or, in the wintertime I could wear my  knitted gloves and hide the clicker in my left gloved hand, perhaps by holding that hand behind my back. I try to do these steps very consciously, to increase my body awareness of *where* I am holding the clicker.

I use my left hand to hold the clicker and my right hand to deliver treats, or the reverse. I just do not use the same hand for both.

If I'm doing a clicker lesson indoors, as sometimes happens, the dog may appear on my left side. Then I simply bend my left arm at the elbow, and place my lower arm across my body, keeping the clicker in my closed up hand -- which then ends up almost next to the elbow of the opposite arm, thus, hidden from the dog's view)

We need to be aware that dogs' ears are *very* sensitive; we would never want to click the clicker close to the dog's head. This situation would be especially a concern if one had a dog of the size which comes nearly to the owner's waist. Protect your dog's ears!

Over time, I've found various ways to reduce the intensity of the click sound. For instance, if I'm doing a target lesson in the family room with my dog, I may sit down on the floor, the better to observe the precise behavior which I wish to mark with the click. I discovered, if I place the clicker on the carpet under my hand, or rest just one edge of the clicker on the carpet, that the carpet will muffle the sound considerably, so that it is not so sharp.

The original clickers were a bit loud. Now one may purchase the I-Click type of clicker; it has a much softer sound, very appropriate for use indoors.

Anyway, back to your new dog who has now become conditioned to the sound of the click -- that is, dog has begun to *catch on* that the click sound predicts that a treat will be delivered!

Then, for the next lesson, owner merely has to be ready with a bowl of tiny treats, a clicker, and the desire to watch for a behavior to be offered. For instance, dog may head toward the door to indicate that it wishes to go out. I use Quaker Honey Nut Oats for treats.

Here's a lesson I want everyone to understand. If dog turns head to glance at owner, click then! At that precise instant the dog offered eye contact, and then deliver the treat. Leash up dog and take it outdoors. Be patient and watch again for dog to offer eye contact, click then, and treat again.

I strongly recommend at the very beginning, like this, that the owner only mark *one* behavior for the first session. That only lasts about 30 seconds to a minute.  Then give the dog a break, to sniff and play in the yard for a few minutes. Then pick up the leash to resume teaching again. We say, "Dog offers the behavior" if dog should voluntarily sit. Then click to mark that and treat. For the next 30 to 60 seconds, be very patient with yourself and with the dog, and wait for dog to offer the sit again. Click precisely *then* to mark that behavior and treat again.We humans have a tendency to be more than a tad late with the click sound. It's as if there were a delay in our mental processing: we observe the dog and we muse, "Oh yeah, the dog is sitting, I guess I'll mark that. Let me see now, where did I put that clicker. Oh, it's here in my pocket, so I'll take it out and then I'll mark." I'm being facetious, of course, about a fumble-dumb trainer. I'm exaggerating to make a point of how slowly we react sometimes.

But if we hope to help the dog learn that the click sound marks the behavior which will earn the treat, then precision is required.

TIMING is important. It's our job to be very attentive, and to be ready physically to click that clicker just as pup starts to lower its haunches to the ground. In fact, waiting for the dog's butt to fully hit the ground may be a tiny fraction of time too late. Be patient with the pup. That little brain will start to process this information, but pup may not yet have made the connection, the mental association, that its act of
association, that its act of sitting makes the click sound happen, and the click sound makes the treat come. Pup hasn't yet realized how much he controls this whole interaction.

Give him a few practice sessions, and the associations will all begin to come together for the pup. Then he'll start to voluntarily offer the sit behavior more and more, to earn the treat reward. Here's where the process becomes so intensely exciting for the dog/owner team working together. Here's where the communication becomes so evident in the learning game.

©Copyright 2006, Barbara D. Brill, North Chili, NY  No further reproduction permitted without express written consent. Email address: This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it